-40%
Chevy Corvair NEW thermostat, 2yr warranty
$ 47.52
- Description
- Size Guide
Description
This is a 100% new unit, made inOhio, USA.
This price is for ONE stat, i show a pic of 6 so you can see all sides of it.
Don't mess around with a questionable 50+ year old part that might fail soon after you install it. As an added bonus, I offer a 2 year refund/replacement warranty! No one else will do that.
The thermostats on a corviar are the #1 most overlooked, maligned, and misunderstood part on the corvair engine. Everyone thinks they know how the work, and almost no one actually understands how they work. Many folks completely leave them off, with the mistaken idea that they want maximum cooling all the time, so no need for thermostats. This is a huge mistake. Yes, your engine will run with no thermostats installed, but, would you take the thermostat off of your Ford? your Toyota? no of course not.
If you are building a street car, you really want to run thermostats. The engineers want to maintain the engine at the ideal temperature, not too hot, and even not too cold. Why is too cold bad? Too cold means lower mpg and more engine wear. If you are not running thermostats, your engine is too cold most of the time. I know that seems impossible, but I have real world test data that shows it. People mistakenly think the stat starts out closed, then fully expands in a few minutes and the damper doors run full open all the time. This is just not true. In the real world, the bellows expands to 75-80% of full stroke, and this makes sense, the engineers want the engine to maintain a constant temperature, that extra 20-25% is for when you stress the engine in the mountains, really hot days, hard driving, etc.
The stock Chevy stat, it is OK, but not the best design, it has several flaws. Now you can find used ones, and someone else offers new ones, but they have the similar problems.
My stat design has solved these problems. What are the problems with the original design?
1 -the original bellows is brass, mine is phosphor bronze, it all comes down to thermal cycles, any metal will eventually split and fail if you thermal cycle it enough, brass has a relatively low cycle count, while phosphor bronze is the king of thermal cycling, it can handle many many more cycles before failure
2 - construction method, the original bellows is a stack of concave discs that are welded together at the OD & ID, every bit of weld it a potential leak point, the total length of weld is staggering at 103" inches of weld, yes, that is over 8 feet of welded joints, that could leak at any point along the weld,,,, my bellows is 1 piece design, so zero leak points.
3 - on the original, the top and bottom and the fitting are soldered on, this makes almost 13" of solder joint, my design has a built in top, so the solder length has been reduced to 7.5", again, less places to have leaks
4 - on the original, when cold, the bellows are allowed to compress with full pressure against each other, when dirt, salt, and grime get between the folds, this causes rubbing pressure that can lead to failure, by bellows has an internal physical stop, so that the bellows cannot press down fully, reducing the likelihood of wear leaks.
5 - This design is sealed with a tapered pin, stock and the other guys use a ball, mines has many more times the sealing surface area, again, for no leaks
6 - on the original, a used unit has no warranty of course, the other guys reproduction has a 6 month warranty, my bellows has a 2 year warranty, yes, my warranty if 4 times longer.